lalibela is the best place to be ON Ethiopian Christmas day

We were told that one million people flock to Lalibela for these Christmas celebrations and throughout the day seeing hundreds of thousands of pilgrims, monks and priests, it became apparent that this estimate could be closer than I first thought possible! We woke up early on January 7th and joined the pilgrims in their candlelight vigil for their Christmas celebrations and prayer.

The atmosphere of this religious spectacle is extraordinary and seeing the devotion of the faithful can have a profound effect on those that are fortunate to visit. It is an absolute honour to be in Lalibela for Christmas, sharing the experience with the Ethiopian Orthodox Christians and learning about their traditions and culture. The true meaning of Christmas being celebrated in the same way as it has here for over 800 years is truly a sight and feeling to experience. Words cannot express this unbelievable and unforgettable religious holiday in Lalibela. Timeless traditions full of symbolic and significant moments of importance.

Surrounded by masses of devoted Ethiopian Orthodox Christians in white draped cloth holding candles was an intense and spectacular feeling. I was unable to move my arms after I took some initial photos and videos while in the crowd (we were packed in so tightly!!), so couldn’t get my camera or phone out for any more photos. It was so special just being in the moment and feeling amazed and honoured to be having this experience.

People are so happy during this religious holiday and whilst you are often cramped in crowded areas, tunnels and underground pathways there is a friendly and understanding respect towards everyone.

Ethiopia has its own calendar and time

January 7th is the date that Orthodox Christians celebrate Christmas in Ethiopia and the holy city of Lalibela is where they’d all like to be on this religious day of celebration! Lalibela is known as Africas’ Jerusalem due to its 11 unique churches and artificial “River Jordon” which was a vision of King Lalibela during his reign. An area of religious and historic significance and one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Ethiopia, the religious ceremonies have remained relatively unchanged for hundreds of years.

The Ethiopian calendar shares many similarities with the Coptic and Julian calendars, but it is not the same. Ethiopian time is also different, but fortunately most people in the tour industry will use international time when speaking and meeting tourists.

It is said one million pilgrims make their way to Lalibela every Christmas

Orthodox Christians in Ethiopia call Christmas Genna/Gena or Ledet. Christmas celebrations in Lalibela begin on January 5th and continue until Christmas morning January 7th. After the morning church celebrations their fasting period of 43 days ends and they are provided with food prepared for thousands. The fasting before Christmas day is to cleanse their body and souls in preparation to celebrate the birth of Jesus Christ. Many of the pilgrims flock to Lalibela in the lead up to Christmas, sleeping anywhere they can find space. When walking around you see some temporary shade shelters, but most are sleeping out in the open around the grounds nearby Laibelas rock-hewn churches.

everyone celebrates being in lalibela at this time

By midday on Christmas day the areas are noticeably becoming less crowded with many starting their journey home. Theres plenty of people that are finally having a needed sleep and there’s plenty of people still visiting and praying at the churches. Thousands of selfies and celebratory photos are being taken at the famous Church of St George. With no temporary shelter above it and with it’s distinctive cross shape it is the most well known and photographed Lalibela church.

trading stalls are everywhere on religious holidays

The religious ceremonies bring many traders to Lalibela who set up stalls or sell from vans. Traditional clothes, decorative white shawls, necklaces on crosses, bibles and Lalibela T-shirts are some of the most popular items you will find. Many people lose their shoes/sandals when entering the churches, so there’s also plenty of places that sell more plastic sandals for those that can buy new ones.

Christmas morning ceremonies are held around the famous Lalibela Bete Maryam church

The sunrise Christmas celebrations on January 7th centre around Bete Maryam (sometimes spelt Mariam) which means House of Mary. Bete Maryam is the oldest church in Lalibela dated back to the 7th century during the kingdom of Axum. However, most believe the churches were all built during the 12th and 13th centuries after being commissioned by King Lalibela. You can read more about the history of Lalibela’s churches and things to know when visiting on my previous blog post here.

an amazing atmosphere with so many devoted people

The courtyard surrounding the church is packed full of pilgrims during the Christmas celebrations. On the surrounding cliff rim there is an area for dignitaries and ambassadors from various countries. The remaining rim edge is lined with priests who sway in unison, rattling their sistrum (a percussion instrument) and chanting in unison. Further on the rim and surrounding the hills of the church are thousands of worshippers. People view the proceedings from absolutely everywhere and are in every direction.

You need a local guide, so make sure you plan ahead during this busy time in Lalibela

To enter the courtyard of Bete Maryam you go through a few carved pathways and then up a few stairs and through a short passageway. Getting through the packed crowds with so many people going in both directions in such small tunnels and pathways is a challenge in itself. Your local tour guide with lead the way.

There is an element of crowd control in areas where important priests/monks or religious items need to get through…although most people seamlessly move and make way for the people and events that need to occur.

an incredible display of historic, traditional and religious harmony

Inside the courtyard there is a tight circle of priests with drummers in the inner circle. They have moments of chanting, dancing and swaying in faultless unison with the pilgrims joining in (vocally) in moments of celebration. These priests perform their traditional hymns and movements with varying intensity throughout the morning. Once the priests above the rim respond they ones below move further around the courtyard and repeat again and again all around the outside of the church. The priests above represent angels in heaven and the priests below chanting represent the people on earth. The priests above respond to their hymns and chanting and the seamless 2-3 hour ceremony at Bete Maryam church is an incredible display of devotion in religious solidarity and harmony.

The Christmas celebrations in Lalibela are broadcast live on Ethiopian TV. Every Orthodox Christian in the country wishes they are in Lalibela for this religious holiday.

christmas afternoon many pilgrims are sleeping or celebrating

The celebrations and overnight vigil takes its toll on many and there are people sleeping in this holiest of places and some priests the next day are noticeably struggling to keep their eyes open after an exhausting few days. The priest in the photo below had thousands of people coming up to him to kiss the cross he was holding and be blessed. I was watching him as he was trying so hard to stay awake…if there was a break in someone coming to him for a few seconds he would have the tiniest power nap. He noticed me looking at him when he opened his eyes a couple of times and we shared a smile with both of us understanding how exhausted he must be! It was such an unforgettable moment.

We walked to the closest highest hill so we could see the view of the churches and also old Lalibela town. Again we came across people randomly positioned and sleeping…like this person in the photo above lying wrapped in cloth underneath the bell.

Ethiopian Christmas at the church of st George, Lalibela

St George is the iconic and most famous of Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches. With no overhead shelter it is a popular place for many visitors to Lalibela to take photos. People are in their finest holiday outfits as well as draped in cloth representing the colours of the Ethiopian flag. There are photographers here that take photos of anyone willing and print them on the spot. It was wonderful to watch them work and print the photos with the limited but essential resources they had. With so many customers they were kept very busy!

The masses of people that come to Lalibela for Christmas are from many different places in Ethiopia. People are happy to have their photos taken by others as they are proud to be in Lalibela. Myself and my tour client also got asked many times to be in selfies and photos with some of the Ethiopians taking photos to remember their day. Especially those that come from remote country areas that are not used to seeing “Farenjis” (foreigners).

promise ring proposal at st George Church on Christmas Day

During our visit to St George Church just before sunset one man, named Efrem, got down on one knee in front of his girlfriend and asked her to marry him. After putting on her promise ring (like our engagement rings) they hugged in the golden light with St George Church as the backdrop. It was so super special to watch her delight and amazement. I’m delighted I could take their photo which I then sent to them so they had a copy. Infront of a large crowd in such an iconic and significant Lalibela church on such a special day…it was so super romantic!

mass weddings at lalibela on Christmas Day

There are also multiple weddings on Ethiopian Christmas Day in Lalibela. These are not when they become “husband and wife”, but when they become married to god. The couples initially are all together, but after the mornings processions have finished you see them walking around in various places around the rock-hewn churches as couples. It is a commitment, recognition and honour for the most devoted couples. You could spot the wedding couples throughout the day with the couples in matching elaborate wedding outfits.

Lalibela fertility holy water

Couples that have been married and are yet to have had a child come to Lalibela for this blessed holy water. It is believed it will help them conceive and have a baby. During these Christmas festivities many couples come in the hope that this water will help them have a baby.

Lalibela is a lifetime experience that is definitely worth visiting!

Massive thank you to my tour client, Andrew, who asked to add Lalibela to his Omo Valley Tour with me! I don’t usually like taking photos of people in religious settings, but after being to Lalibela I can see this place has such historic and architectural importance that I would not hesitate to return! The people there were proud of being in Lalibela and happy to be photographed. I highly recommend visiting if you are considering going there!

For more information on visiting Lalibela and this famous holy city in Eastern Ethiopia please read my previous blog post CLICK HERE